No particular place to go

We’ve been dealing with unfamiliar languages, strange currencies, and Schengen, but as we approach the Bulgarian border crossing we were hit with this sign. This is going to get a bit tricky.

In an hour we’ll be dealing with the Bulgarian Lev currency which is at 1.86 BGN for 1.00 USD as opposed to what we’re are now dealing with the Serbian dinar, which is 111.57 RSD for 1.00 USD. The alphabet is going to pose a bit of agro.

I suppose now is as good a time as any to come clean, dear Escapee’s, and admit that just like in Serbia, we don’t have any real plan or a clue as to what to expect in Bulgaria. You could say Bulgaria’s kind of just “in the way” of our destination, and it’s in Schengen so it’s bound to be a hit and run.

We find that our parkup is a subway ride away from Sofia. What’s in Sofia you ask? Don’t know, let’s go and find out.

Nice clean and modern Soviet style subway, but we still haven’t a clue where to get off so we just wait until most everyone else does. Don’t laugh it usually works.

Gulp, that’s a big one!

We emerge from the underground into a bustling city, staring up at a comely lass perched high on a pedestal holding a laurel wreath and an owl on her left hand. Turns out she is St. Sofia patron saint of the city.

Casting our eyes downward we noticed an old lady smoking a roll-up, sitting on some stairs that lead down to an entrance to an ancient stone chapel. She slowly stood up without a word, pulled out a large old key and, puffing away, motioned us to follow.

We didn’t know it but we had just run into St Petka Samardzhyiska church. Oddly enough this church was built in the 4th century on the foundations of Constantine the Great’s castle. Those of you Escapees paying attention will remember Mr C. The G. from our last installment.

Frescoes on the dome.

While walking down a city street we noticed a large gathering of well dressed people. We stopped and Yours Truly said. “It must be a wedding.” Oops.

After the crowd dispersed and the dear departed had…departed…we decided it was a great time to checkout the cathedral.

The Necropolis of Saint Sofia Cathedral is really something. The earliest church on this site dates back to the 4th century. Over the centuries a series of churches were constructed and subsequently destroyed by invading forces. The magnificent church you’re looking at was built in the 6th century and even did time as a mosque in the 16th century. I don’t know, maybe it was my mood, but in a possible violation of rule #2 (Don’t get jaded), I wandered around this magnificent Cathedral humming Peggy Lee’s old anthem to ennui “Is That All There Is?”

After wandering quite a while, as we reached the exit, the guy at the ticket kiosk, leaned over his counter and in a most conspiratorial tone said, “You’ll want to go down into the crypt. There are over 50 tombs down there from 5 different eras.” How much? Free for seniors! At that point, I’m all in.

The descent down into the crypt went well due to the clever and handsome stairs and glass walkways they’ve constructed throughout the catacombs.

There are four or five stories of catacombs, tombs, and ruins of previous churches under St Sophia.

Ancient mosaics from a long forgotten church floor.

We are overwhelmed. And alone.

Painted fresco from inside a tomb.

Up from the catacombs among the living, St Sofia still surprises.

We heard that a famous heroic Soviet era memorial was not to be missed, mainly due to the decidedly non-heroic, non-patriotic graffiti that the Bulgarians relentlessly cover the monument in. I admit I was reluctant, the damn thing was all the way across town and after all, it’s a funky Soviet era heroic memorial and I can laugh at it from here. Need I remind you, dear Escapees of rule #3 which clearly states that the juice must be worth the squeeze!

So we take a flyer and it’s really a hike. It seems the Bulgarians are deeply into a major spring cleaning and have a protective corrugated metal wall around what looks like a massive city block of memorials.

The obelisk is a nice touch.

And here you can voice your concerns or love of Soviet propaganda.

The squeeze part of the juice was even more painful than I feared as we trudged back towards the underground.

But wait there’s more! We ran right into St George’s church thought to be the oldest building in modern Sofia. Originally built as Roman Baths in the late 3rd century, three layers of frescoes have been discovered, most notably the 22 prophets decorating the dome.

These frescoes are wonderful.

Now which direction is the underground?