Still chasing waterfalls

I have to say that in retrospect better judgement could have been exercised in choosing transportation to Kong Si falls. The 600,000KIP number ($7.50 US each) was attractive for four people to travel over an hour on Lao’s horrible roads, but a Songthaew, which is always painted red, with a spare tire where your feet would rather be, open to dust and dirt, with a low menacing steel bar as you try to climb in, featuring rock hard bench seats running down both sides of the truck bed, combined with a buggy suspension whose unfortunate use of leaf springs borders on the criminal, may not have been the best option. At least we won’t be roaming around picking up and dropping off backpackers on the way.

In deference to you, dear Escapees I will not attempt to describe the terrible beating we four took, but suffice to say, we’re told the bruising will heal.

On arrival our man motioned that he would pick us up over there in a dusty lot where fellow chauffeurs were hanging their hammocks or already sleeping in their Tuk-Tuks and Songthaews.

The usual carney atmosphere of countless souvenir, Tee shirt, and Satay vendors fills the arrival area, which leads directly to the uniformed authorities at the ticket turnstile. Once through we were faced with a giant tree and a decision.

Turn left and trust that the trail is a loop, turn right for what has become the Escape Velocity paradigm of counter rotation. It seems to work for us. We entered a lush rainforest.

I’m impatient to get to the waterfall but first we will visit a large area devoted to an Asiatic Black Bear Rescue Center. At any given time the center houses 10-20 bears rescued from illegal wildlife trade, and specifically the abusive harvesting of bile, used in Chinese medicine. It’s fair to say they don’t look very happy but presumably life will improve for them.

A bit more hiking and we find ourselves at the first of many pools of milky turquoise water.

It’s a spooky color that seems to glow from within, but kind of magical just the same.

Of course I’ve got that “Is that all there is?” song on the great tape recorder in my head, but we don’t judge, and I can see more and more beautiful curvey pools with a healthy spillover effect.

Not what I’d call a waterfall exactly, but definitely unusual.

Working our way upstream the milky water spread out over more and more small curved pools and the beauty of the falls began to overwhelm us. The view changed with every step along the path.

We plunged into the rain forest for a while.

Regaining the muddy water’s edge we found ourselves in the powerful presence of a beautiful 50 meter tall waterfall.

Simon instinctively scampered up a very steep slippery path that leads up to the top of the falls but it’s been my experience that the view from the top of waterfalls is almost always disappointing. That would make it a rule #3 (is the juice worth the squeeze?) infraction. We found a seat at the bottom of the falls and absorbed the beauty while we attempted to scrape the mud off our shoes.

Heading back we found more spectacular views from the other side.

Simon even found time for a dip in the milky turquoise water.

We grabbed a snack and found our driver sound asleep.

I wish I could say that the way back was not as punishing but in fairness, it was every bit as bad. We repaired to our rooms and if there was ever a day for a long massage this was it.