Monthly Archives: July 2012

Civilization

Ah, Norfolk Virginia. What an industrialized body of water the Elizabeth river is. Luckily I’d decided to follow our neighbor who tied up across the canal from us in Great Bridge. The Kennebec is a huge contraption run by the coastguard and my best guess is that it pounds those telephone pole size marker posts into the bottom of the ICW to mark the channel. I figured not only would he know where he was going but he’d have a little more pull with the bridge operators. I was right. You really can’t believe how complicated they can make an opening schedule.

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Closed M-F, 6:30 to 9:30am and 3:30 to 6:30pm excluding holidays. 9:30am to 3:30pm M-F and 6:30am to 6:30pm on Saturday, Sunday and Federal Holidays, on signal hourly at the half hour. Verbatim out of the guide book! The Kennebec’s Capt. would just say good morning Gilmore Bridge and the bridge would open, instead of hours waiting.

We’re anchored across from Downtown Norfolk Virginia and aside from a broken throttle cable on the Honda outboard making river crossings a very long process, we’re enjoying a little civilization. Lots of schooners and energy.

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Great Bridge Virginia!


After waiting, a little to long, at anchor, in the lee of Buck Island for a possible storm to pass we decided we really wanted to get to Great Bridge Virginia. Cute town, free dock for 24 hrs, shops
Very close. What’s not to like?

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A Wednesday in July

When we got up yesterday we found a newspaper on the dock. First time that’s happened!

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Went ashore to the marina office/convenience store/diner for delicious made-to-order breakfast sandwiches on home made biscuits.

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And then it was out into the nasty Albemarle Sound where I nearly donated my breakfast to the deep, but managed to keep it, barely.

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Sometimes NOAA gets it right

After an especially exuberant night with over 20 kts. of wind, we didn’t wake up so much as gave up early in the morning. I wanted to try to describe the motion Escape Velocity goes through dealing with the high winds and surge coming off the Neuse River. First she bounds out to the end of her lines and you can feel them bring her up short and pause as she stretches them just a touch, and then she zeros in on 7 of her best fenders and buries herself into them, like James Harrison buries himself into an opposing quarterback or anyone who is not a Pittsburgh Steeler. Much squealing and I imagine groaning as the fenders are compressed, at this point the attentive Skipper is listening for the tell-rail thunk of wooden piling making contact with his boat’s rubrail, at which point he is up and outside with flashlight before it can happen again.
She’ll do this three times in a row and then, in a hip-hop kind-of move she inexplicably slows down while heading out to the ends of her lines, pitching you forward, and dips down throwing your natural Circadian Rhythm to hell in a hand basket. Repeat all night.

By morning it was blowing 25+kts. and EV was doing the evil dance with gusto. 1,2,3, rest, dddiiippp! Suddenly, I think I was down in the master stateroom brushing my teeth, I noticed I wasn’t lurching around and there was no howling of wind through the rigging. While we had planned an earlier start, it was time to go. The 50′ Hunter in front of us was still here waiting for her owners to come to after a night of drinking. I knew they wouldn’t be getting an early start.

Waiting for a rising tide is always tough for me. When it’s time to go I gotta go.

The Neuse was benign and it was great to be moving again, even though the daily threat of violent thunderstorms were predicted. No joy from the electronics room concerning autopilots after a $398 repair bill. The B&G promptly gave a “trip” message and the wheel pilot acted like it was on crack. At least it made some noise.

By 6:30 pm we caught up to a very nasty looking thunderstorm. We decided to go for an alternate anchorage just off the Pungo River and barely got the hook down when it hit. Tons of rain, only 20 knts of wind. No services, remote, but a lovely spot. Marce does it again.

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Blues in the night

I know that the 4th of July (or Jew-LIE as they say around these parts) is a patriotic celebration but what with the odd Croakerfest schedule delaying the fireworks display until the 7th I had time to get nostalgic.

In college I shared a house for a while with a banjo player named Lee Lenker, who was blond and beautiful and fun to be around. She played in a local bluegrass band, the Buffalo Chipkickers, and toured occasionally along the east coast. She came home one time after a road trip to the south with a pile of bottle rockets, illegal in Pennsylvania, and set off across the street one night at dusk with a load of empty bottles and the rockets. Our house faced a drive-in movie theatre so she had plenty of room to line them up and tie the fuses together for a private show. We dragged chairs out onto the porch, opened a beer and put our feet up, and when it got suitably dark Lee ran across the street, lit the first fuse and ran back to the porch for the brief but loud and colorful display. We whooped and hollered and laughed and felt very mischievous.

I lost track of Lee after I left school and a few years ago I learned she died of cancer at the age of 52. Her obituary said she became a teacher and an innovator of technology in the classroom, and she continued to play the banjo. Our paths crossed for a very brief time, but there are so many things I learned from her and I think of her often.

Many years later, and after 14 years as a single parent, I met Jack. I’d had long-term serious relationships since getting divorced, but I knew in an instant that it was different with Jack. We met in February, and by May we knew we were meant to be together. Jack had a 20-foot Bayliner named Mischievous and when summer came he put the boat in the water and took me out for the first time on the Allegheny River on a Pirates fireworks night. In Pittsburgh the fireworks are launched from a barge in the middle of the Ohio River. We anchored along with hundreds of boats of all types and picnicked until dark. When the time came we sat on the bow and I experienced fireworks like I never had before. The rockets went up in the air and exploded high above us, but they were also reflected in the water around us so that our entire peripheral vision was filled with sparkling lights. The sound echoed off the riverbanks and was so loud I had to hold my ears. Afterward we putted upstream and waited our turn at the lock with dozens of other boats, bobbing quietly. I was hooked.

For the next couple of years we rarely missed a fireworks display on the river. Then we sold Mischievous to buy Spellbound, a big sailboat that sat in the boatyard while we rebuilt her, and we no longer got to lock through to the downtown pool on our own boat for fireworks. We were always at the marina, though, and when a young guy moved in on a houseboat we soon became friends. Matt helped Jack design the electrical system of Spellbound, and hung out with us at the local yacht club and at our house. During one frigid winter he occasionally slept in our guest room when his water hose froze.

One summer my family came to visit from New Jersey and I wanted to plan something special. I asked Matt, “Do you think…?” and he said, “Of course!” I cooked all day Saturday and refused to tell my family where we were going, only that we’d have an evening picnic. When the time came we drove to the marina and I pointed to Matt’s houseboat. “We’re going there,” I said, and they were all excited that we would have dinner on a boat. We had also invited Jack’s family and when everyone was aboard Matt surprised them all by untying the docklines and heading toward downtown. It was a perfect party, and a rare time when both families were together. My folks had never been through a lock before and they had fun holding the lines and watching the mechanics. We got to the Ohio River and anchored for dinner, then moved a little upstream for the fireworks. I loved that everyone had the same reaction I did the first time seeing fireworks on the water. In fact, my mom was terrified and we had to move her inside the boat because she was convinced one of the rockets would land on her head. When the fireworks were over we putted up the river and waited our turn at the lock, and I was so happy that I’d been able to share something special from my life with the people I love, and grateful to Matt for taking us on his boat.

Matt left the river and moved to Slovenia. We’ve kept in touch but we’ve only seen him once since then. Just yesterday we got an email that he and his longtime girlfriend got married and are expecting twins. We’re so happy for them, and we hope that some day Escape Velocity will get us to Slovenia to see them again.

Without Matt on the river, Jack and I had no other friends with boats that we could commandeer for the fireworks, so we took to watching from land. Pittsburgh is a sizable city, and they take their fireworks very seriously, so finding a good viewing location that wasn’t overly crowded was a challenge. We eventually discovered a small parking lot on the banks of the Ohio just opposite where the fireworks barge anchors. The parking lot filled up early so we packed dinner and a bottle of wine, along with chairs and books to read, paid our $15 and claimed a spot about 6pm. That’s a long wait but we never minded. We read, ate dinner, had a little wine, and then enjoyed our front row seats to some of the best fireworks displays ever. We didn’t even mind the traffic jam getting home, even if it sometimes took over an hour to get the seven miles upriver to our house.

Now we’re on our new home Escape Velocity. We had hoped to be in New England by this time, but here we are in Oriental, NC, with fireworks on Saturday night to mark the end of Croakerfest. Most of the marina residents planned to go only as far as the front porch of the marina office to watch but for Jack and me that is totally unacceptable. Our mission is always to get as close to the firing site as possible and preferably within sight of the rocketeers. And so we biked the four miles into town, stopped at The Bean for ice cream, then walked onto the bridge where the locals told us we’d get the best view. Small boats were gathering in the lee of the bridge, just like in Pittsburgh.

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Boats that couldn’t fit under the bridge anchored outside the harbor. But there was nobody on the bridge.

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We realized we still had the city mindset that we had to stake out a spot early, whereas here in Oriental, even if the entire 814 residents decided to walk onto the bridge there’d be plenty of room for everyone.

About ten minutes before the fireworks started, sure enough, they came. It was mostly rowdy teenagers; the grown-ups apparently watch from the comfort of lawn chairs on their front yards. But when the fireworks started, Jack and I walked to the edge of the bridge and watched in amazement as this tiny little town put on a thoroughly respectable show. It lasted about a half hour and we clapped and cheered at the finale.

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With the fireworks over we faced a four-mile bike ride over unlighted country roads back to the marina. We were flashing like a police cruiser in pursuit of a scofflaw with our bike strobes on full but we needn’t have worried. We didn’t see one car the whole way, and Jack got impatient with me as I pedaled slower and slower, distracted by the sky full of stars, and the serenade of the night creatures in the forest. We locked up our bikes at the marina office and walked back down the dock to our own personal light show, flashing green number five out in the channel off our starboard quarter.

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Croakerfest Parade

Every time Jack’s been subjected to the Ralston family home movies he wonders if all we ever did was watch parades or march in them. Well that’s life in a small town, and we grew up in two of them. It’s been a long time since we’ve experienced a local parade and it’s great fun.

We started out at The Bean for a bagel and a cup of coffee.

Then found ourselves a prime viewing spot for the parade.

We were pretty excited to see our new friend the electronics technician/trombone player again.

And here’s another use for those plastic gallon jugs that keep piling up.

We didn’t enter the tractor raffle.

I have to say this is the first time I ever saw a church float in a parade.

These guys were wildmen and did manuevers and blasted music and threw candy to the kids, as did most of the paraders.

After the parade we walked through a yard sale on our way back to the bikes and saw this thing. We don’t know what it is, but it has a Steelers sticker on it.

 

 

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Lemonade

I admit in just two months as a fulltime cruiser I’ve already broken the Number One Rule: Don’t try to stick to a schedule. Living and traveling on a boat means you’re at the mercy of the weather and your boat, so any plans you make may need to be thrown out the window because there’s unfavorable weather ahead or something breaks. We’ve experienced both, and I find myself frustrated that our tentative schedule is flying out the window.

Weather has kept us from heading out into the ocean for a passage that would get us north far faster than motoring on the ICW. And then the only time we did get out to sea, both our autopilots stopped working, a disaster when there are only two people aboard to take turns hand-steering.

We’re also learning that to ask any three experts to diagnose a mechanical problem is to get at least as many opinions about what’s wrong. Not only that, but they will each laugh off the previous guy’s opinion as ridiculous. And so the saga of our non-working main autopilot continues, although the backup autopilot turned out to be a burned-out motor which is now replaced. And luckily the chartplotter’s problem was just a pin-connector coming loose inside, something that will haunt us in the future, but only when we have to change chart cards, which isn’t too often.

So we came to Oriental, NC, to see a marine electronics repairman. He’s the one who diagnosed the problem in the chartplotter, and also found a previously unnoticed problem with the autopilot. We thought we’d need a couple of days for repairs and booked a week at a marina to make life easier. Turns out this is the week of Croakerfest, an annual celebration of a fish. And even though I wish we were already in New England, and frustrated that we probably won’t be able to meet up with my family in Maine, I have to just roll with it and join the fun of Croakerfest.

The fun started yesterday, and no sooner had we arrived to the sounds of the Pamlico Community Band playing the dirge version of ET than we ran into our repairman, who pointed out that his technician plays trombone in the band. Hey! We already know people on stage! Moments later a woman came over and tapped both Jack and Peter to judge the baking contest.

They both jumped at the chance, although if they’d known ahead of time how long it would take, they may have declined. As the band progressed to a medley of Four Seasons hits, then on to Herb Alpert favorites, Jack and Peter tasted pies, cheesecakes, adult cookies, under-12 cookies, sweet breads and cakes.

I wandered through the book sale booth and listened to the band’s patriotic numbers and the Pamlico County Chorale’s singalong set of old favorites.

I struck up a conversation with the town’s only policeman who was keeping his eye on the blueberry pie, waiting for the judging to be over so he could buy it and take it home. It did look good. He told me there were 814 residents “in town now. There are 823 who live here, but 814 here now.”

“You know when people come and go?” I asked.

“They usually send me an email. ‘I’m going out of town for a couple of weeks.'”

“So you’ll keep an eye on things.”

“Yep.”

“Do you have much crime here?”

“No. Not really. That’s good, because I don’t want to be chasing any young kids.”

Like most people we talk to, he was intrigued that we live on a boat and asked a lot of questions. I told him to stop over and see Escape Velocity if he wanted to.

When they finally finished the judging, Jack made a beeline to the BBQ pork booth run by the Rotary Club. I don’t know how he had room for that after so many sweets.

We stuck around for the crowning of Miss Croakerfest.

And watched the beginning of the twister tournament.

That was quite enough for one day.

 

 

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Oriental Style

The 4th, Oriental style. I found this…lawn ornament in town.

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Things are really gearing up, not necessarily for the 4th which they celebrate with family picnics; the fireworks will wait for Saturday night.

The big boffo party is the Croakerfest, which is celebrated the weekend after the 4th. A Croaker is apparently a fish much loved down here. On Friday we’ve got The Pamlico County Band and Chorale, baking contest, Miss Minnow, and the Croaker Queen Pageant.
Saturday kicks off with the big parade leading into a sailing regatta with many different classes, music with Molasses Creek, culminating with fireworks over the harbor.

Sunday 8am we watch the dolphins at Lou-Mac-Park and help clean up! Community Church service to follow.

We will be watching the fireworks from the front porch of the Whitaker Point Marina.

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The slip we’re in is very rolly and bouncy and is not doing Marce any favors so we might be watching from here.

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Looks can deceive

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Oh it looks peaceful enough. We’d just returned from our shopping with panniers stuffed to over flowing and as we wended our way towards our neighbor’s dock, which they’d graciously invited us to use, we saw Escape Velocity in this idyllic setting.

Soon after this shot was taken I noticed dark low clouds scudding along just over the tree tops. We were surrounded by trees so we knew we’d have some protection from the worst of it. Poor holding in soft mud, very shoal water and limited maneuvering room, made me second guess the decision. Out on Bogue Sound, which you can just see to the left of EV, they were getting hammered. Sea Tow brought in four boats tied to their side, but the scariest tow was the ghost boat which had been anchored fifty yards from us next to a reed bank. During the worst of the storm it broke free of its restraints and sloshed back and forth with the crazy wind. At one point it beached itself but refused to stay put. I’d had enough.

I called SeaTow. Let’s see…they’re very busy, it’s dark, we’re in the middle if a storm and there’s no one to pick up the tab. An hour later we could see the flashing yellow and red lights coming through the passage into Peletier Creek.

With gusts at 40+ and lightning dancing all around, we continued to do the dance. By midnight It was all over.

We left Peletier Creek at high tide, 7:30 am through a passage so shallow and narrow that I still can’t believe we did it. Unforgettable, another Marce find.

We steamed up the ICW to Morehead City Yacht Basin to have our broken stuff looked at. No joy, but we learned a couple of things. Like looking for our emergency wheel autopilot’s brain for hours only to realize it doesn’t have one. I guess I could have figured that out a little quicker.

We’re in Oriental N. Carolina for a few days, at a nice Marina just off the Neuse River. A well recommended electronics guy works nearby.

The view from the back porch.

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Blow, big man

Once again we find ourselves in the middle of a band of thunderstorms that came out of nowhere. We had a sweltering hot day trying to get some chores done and by five o’clock it looked like we might have a delicious cooling rain. Instead we got a scary black storm with sustained winds of 20-25 knots and gusts in the forties. We’re on a cozy little anchorage, which is good and bad. It’s good because we’re protected from the worst of the winds except from the south. It’s bad because if our anchor should drag we’re surround by private docks, each one with a boat or two in lifts, and attached to pilings. Not anything you want to hit.

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As soon as the wind kicked up Jack started the engines and held EV into the wind. He told me to keep an eye behind him to be sure we didn’t drag backwards toward either the shallows or the docks.

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And just to add a little excitement to the evening, a sailboat that was anchored in the corner of the creek broke loose and is weaving back and forth adrift. Before it got dark we looked with our binoculars to try to figure out what’s going on with it and it appears that the anchor rode parted. First it headed away from us and beached itself on shore, but then the wind shifted and it broke loose again and looked like it was heading right for us. We tried to hail someone ashore to alert them and find the owner, but couldn’t raise anyone in the wind.

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Eventually the wind died down temporarily and a man came out to see what the shouting was all about. He said he’d been trying to get the absentee owner of the sailboat to move it for six months with no success and went off to call him.

It’s dark now, and Jack is still at the helm. I made us a quick meal so we’ll be fortified for whatever tonight brings us. The rain has stopped but the wind is still in the twenties with higher gusts. I pulled out our biggest fenders in case the sailboat blows over to us. If the winds would back to the east we’d feel a little more comfortable, but they’re currently from the southwest and predicted to stay that way all night. No sleep for us!

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